June 9, 1863
Battle of Brandy Station (AKA The Battle for Fleetwood Hill, but--as is so often the case with these AKAs--that's just a subsection of the larger battle)
Brandy Station, Virginia, in Culpeper County
Hooker > Maj. Gen. Alfred Pleasanton: two "wings," under Brig. Gens. John Buford and David McMurtrie Gregg, augmented by infantry brigades from the V Corps; fan favorite Col. H. Judson Kilpatrick is in there too.
vs.
Lee > Maj. Gen. J. E. B. Stuart: five cavalry brigades, commanded by Brig. Gens. Wade Hampton, W.H.F. "Rooney" Lee, Beverly H. Robertson, William E. "Grumble" Jones, and Colonel Thomas T. Munford (commanding Brig. Gen. Fitzhugh Lee's brigade while Lee was stricken with a bout of rheumatism), plus the six-battery Stuart Horse Artillery, commanded by Major Robert F. Beckham; and confusingly, some guy named McClellan, on the wrong side.
* After Chancellorsville, Before Gettysburg
* The largest cavalry engagement of the Civil War, and therefore,
* the largest cavalry engagement every to take place on American soil, so also,
* the biggest cavalry engagement ever in the Western Hemisphere.
* How many? Somewhere around 17,000 or more, both sides combined. The Battle of Trevilian Station in 1864 was technically the largest all-cavalry battle of the war, so this might be the largest predominantly cavalry battle.
* As the Rebs themselves freely admitted, "This battle marked the end of the Confederate cavalry's dominance in the East. From this point in the war, the Federal cavalry gained strength and confidence"
* Don't forget to visit "Inlet Station, VA" later, where the Confederate cavalry amassed for a full field review including simulated charging, and then again for Lee, a few days earlier. Good luck finding that.
* On a personal note, this was the site and time at which I collected my 3,000th historical marker!
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| They have been working on these Culpeper area battlefields, and I am here for it. |
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| That was a while ago. The CWPT became the American Battlefield Trust |
This is gonna be a great hike!
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| https://www.hmdb.org/m.asp?m=280449 |
Battle of Brandy Station
St. James Church Trail
Welcome to the Brandy Station battlefield. If you stood here on June 9, 1863, you would have beheld a scene of terrible carnage as horsemen in blue and gray clashed in the largest cavalry battle of the Civil War. You could have seen the Union commander, Gen. Alfred Pleasonton, make his headquarters at the Gee house, which stood a short distance to your right. The Battle of Brandy Station proved to be the opening engagement of the Gettysburg Campaign and later that year, after months of arduous marching across Virginia, Maryland and Pennsylvania, the Union Army of the Potomac sprawled around you in a massive winter encampment.
The beautiful fields before you were once slated for commercial development, but the American Battlefield Trust and its preservation partners stepped in to purchase this historic acreage. Since its founding in 1987, the American Battlefield Trust has preserved more than 60,000 acres of historic battlefield land. This battlefield will be incorporated into Virginia State Parks in 2024. As you walk this now peaceful ground, take time to contemplate- and remember the ordinary Americans who performed extraordinary deeds and their vital role to our country's story.
This one-mile loop trail takes you past wayside exhibits interpreting the 1863 fighting at St. James Church and the 1863-64 Winter Encampment. Please stroll this trail with reverence and respect for the soldiers who fought and died on the St. James Plateau. Allow at least one hour to walk the grassy trail; please do not stray from the path. Beware of ticks, snakes and other wildlife that thrive in the surrounding fields.

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https://www.hmdb.org/m.asp?m=238526
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Battle of Brandy Station
Center of the Army
Across the field on the knoll stood Union army commander Gen. George G. Meade's headquarters—the heart of the Army of the Potomac during the winter of 1863-1864. Appointed to the position just 19 days after the Battle of Brandy Station, Meade established his headquarters here with fresh water and a signal station nearby.
Even though he engaged in normal military administration, attended formal balls in camp, and answered requests for autographs, the winter months were an especially anxious time for Meade. Despite his victory at Gettysburg, politicians and soldiers alike questioned his leadership and decisions during the grand battle. Meade occasionally traveled to Washington to defend himself before the Congressional Joint Committee on Conduct of the War. "It would be almost a farce" to be dismissed, he confided to his wife, Margaret. Meade ultimately retained his command.
Meade spent the last part of the encampment planning operations with the new General-in-Chief, Ulysses S. Grant. Grant elected to accompany Meade for the upcoming spring campaign. Early on the morning of May 4, 1864, Mead and Grant departed Culpeper on a long road that ended eleven months later with the surrender of Robert E. Lee and the Army of Northern Virginia at Appomattox Court House.
"It really looks like the beginning of spring ... here at Headquarters the only sounds are the distant car-whistles and the drums and trumpets sounding the calls; except, indeed, the music of the band, which is hardly a noise and is very acceptable."
—Lt. Col. Theodore Lyman, USA
An 1835 West Point graduate, George Meade served in the Mexican-American War and performed with distinction at Antietam, Fredericksburg, and Chancellorsville. After the Civil War, Meade headed the Division of the Atlantic. He died on March 6, 1872. This March 1864 image depicts Meade with other officers at the Brandy Station encampment. Meade stands tallest at right center. Standing dapper in the long coal at left center is Gen. Alfred Pleasonton, Union commander at the Battle at Brandy Station. Courtesy Library of Congress
The 1863 campaigns of Chancellorsville, Gettysburg, Bristoe Station and Mine Run exacted an immense toll upon the Army of the Potomac. Union Gen. George G. Meade deemed it vital to rest his command, replenish his ranks and bolster the army's hemorrhaged logistical infrastructure. During the second week of December 1863, Federal troops began building the vast winter camp that was home to more than 150,000 men and beasts.
* Today I learned that Meade's wife's name is Margaret. Not Margaret Mead. Margaret Meade.

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| https://www.hmdb.org/m.asp?m=280450 |
Battle of Brandy Station
Hymns and Horsemen
If you follow the path into the woods on the other side of the road, you will reach the site and adjoining cemetery of St. James Episcopal Church. Founded by Richard H. Cunningham and his neighbors in 1840, the two-story brick chapel served congregants in northeastern Culpepper County. Built with the assistance of slave labor; African Americans regularly attended services, sitting in the gallery.
On the morning of June 9, 1863, Union cavalry under the direction of Gen. John Buford crossed the Rappahannock River at Beverly's Ford, about two miles away and opened the Battle of Brandy Station. Buford's horsemen encountered Confederate pickets along with batteries from the Stuart Horse Artillery under Maj. Robert. Beckham. Gen. William E. "Grumble" Jones, whose troopers camped in the area where you now stand, responded to the threat. Brutal fighting took place along Beverly's Ford Road before the Confederates eventually fell back to a position around St. James Church. Beckham placed his guns on the ridge where you now stand and extended his line to Beverly's Ford Road. The Confederates maintained this position until later in the day when Federal cavalry under Gen. David Gregg threatened their rear at Fleetwood Hill.
"Beckham's guns…were put immediately into action, one of them being put into position by hand…before the horses were harnessed and hitched up They were finally put in position on the ridge in front of and to the right or the church."—Maj. Daniel Grimsley, 6th Virginia Cavalry, CSA
Gen. James Ewell Brown "Jeb" Stuart commanded the Confederate cavalry at Brandy Station. As the battle developed Stuart left his headquarters on Fleetwood Hill to oversee the fighting at St. James Church.
-Courtesy of the Library of Congress
Lt. Louis Carpenter of the 6th U.S Cavalry sketched this image of St. James Church during the winter encampment. His regiment dismantled the building and used the bricks to construct chimneys for their winter huts. After the war, St. James congregation moved from its former site to the hamlet of Brandy Station and established Christ Episcopal Church in 1869.
- Courtesy of Clark B. Hall
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| https://www.hmdb.org/m.asp?m=82295 |
Original Site of
St. James
Episcopal Church
1840-1863
[Nov. 2025] I did NOT walk down that trail, and there's no markers down there anyway. I am fairly upset that I did miss the Buford's Knoll Walking Trail on the other side of the Battlefield Park (not to mention Buford's Knoll on the other side of the ford), but something tells me I'll be back near Culpeper again soon.

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| They are really sensitive about me stealing these maps, and rightfully so, but this is just a picture, right? I love the ABT, but I do NOT love that this map (like the last one) is ostensibly upside down. |
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| https://www.hmdb.org/m.asp?m=289356 |
Battle of Brandy Station
Attacking the St. James Church Line
As the fighting intensified throughout the morning, Union Gen. John Buford brought the remainder of his wing from the Army of the Potomac's cavalry corps across Beverly's Ford. Buford "pushed to the front to examine the country and to find out how matters stood." Finding stiff resistance on his left around St. James Church, Buford decided to attack. He assigned the task to Maj. Robert Morris and the 6th Pennsylvania Cavalry. "One company advanced as skirmishers," wrote an officer in the regiment, Maj. Henry Whelan. "Two squadrons followed as support. We charged their squadron front...through a severe artillery fire." The 6th Pennsylvania rode "almost up to the mouths" of Maj. Robert Beckham's guns, Buford wrote after the battle. During the assault, Morris had this hose shot from under him and was captured. He later died in Richmond's Libby Prison.
Four squadrons of the 6th United States Cavalry under Capt. George Crm rode within supporting distance of Morrison on his left. Cram remembered his regimented "advanced through the woods in front under a heavy fire of shell till reaching the open beyond, when it promptly charged the enemy. Owing to the overpowering numbers opposed to it, and being exposed to a heavy artillery fire at close rand on its left, the regiment was compelled to retire." Broken and battered by the attack, both regiments retreated from the field. The confederate position at St. James Church held firm.
"And with a shout that makes the woods ring, our brave boys of the Sith Pennsylvania...dash across the pain on the to the foe. The wildest enthusiasm has seized our men, and at the full speed of their horses they dash forward."
- Chaplain Samuel Gracey, 6th Pennsylvania Cavalry, USA
Although the Confederates repulsed the attack of the 6th Pa and 6th U.S. cavalry regiments, fighting continued near St. James Church. Gen. Wade Hampton's brigade extended the Confederate line beyond your far left. Union infantry supporting Buford under Gen. Adelbert Ames deployed inside the far wood line behind you.
From this vicinity, Civil War sketch artist Alfred Waud sketched this image of the assault at St. James Church. At upper left you can see the white house, home to Mary Gee. The Gee house stood just across Beverly's Ford Road from the parking lot.
- Courtesy Harper's Weekly

*
Meanwhile, across the street.
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| https://www.hmdb.org/m.asp?m=238462 |
Lee's Forgotten Warrior
William Henry Fitzhugh Payne (1830-1904) of Fauquier County, VA formed the famed "Black Horse Cavalry" (later called the 4th VA) as a militia company in June, 1859. Payne joined the Confederacy at the war's outset as a citizen soldier and earned promotions from private to brigadier general based on his leadership, battlefield valor, and meritorious service. He was wounded and captured three times - at Williamsburg (May 5, 1862); Hanover (June 30, 1863); and Five Forks (March 30, 1865). At war's end Brig. Gen. Payne received his parole from a military prison at Johnson's Island, Ohio.
One June 9, 1863 Col. Solomon Williams (2nd NC) was killed one mile northwest of this spot. Maj. Gen. JEB Stuart immediately conferred command of the regiment to then Lt. Col. Payne. The 2nd NC broke camp near here on June 16, 1863, and Payne subsequently led them in the Gettysburg Campaign until his wounding and capture at Hanover.
Erected 2018.
*
And then, it is on to glorious Fleetwood Hill, which makes sense both geographically and chronological, as the battle moved there later in the day.
NOT historical markers
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https://www.hmdb.org/m.asp?m=154528
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George C. Hupp
Battle of Brandy Station
— Fleetwood Hill —
George C. Hupp, Sergeant in K Company,
8th Illinois Cavalry, was wounded at Brandy
Station Battlefield on June 9, 1863. In his
Memory Great-Great-Great Grandson William J.
Hupp, Glen Ellyn, Illinois, happily made a
leadership contribution to the preservation
and restoration of this crucial portion of
Fleetwood Hill. With profound gratitude, The
Civil War Trust erects this marker on behalf
of future generations, who will be able to
visit this hallowed ground and better
understand the experience of the brave
Cavalry Troopers who fought here.
Erected 2005 by Central Battlefields Trust, Civil War Trails and Civil War Trust.
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https://www.hmdb.org/m.asp?m=154490
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Battle of Brandy Station
Greatest cavalry battle of the Civil War
• Fought June 9, 1863 •
Gen. J.E.B. Stuart defeated Gen. A. Pleasonton
Confederates engaged 10,200. Federals 10,900
Casualties, Confederates, 485, Federals 866
This is Fleetwood Hill
The crucial position
Finally occupied by the Confederates
Erected 1926 by United Daughters of the Confederacy.
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| https://www.hmdb.org/m.asp?m=91461 |
Battle of Brandy Station
The largest cavalry action of the war
Following his stunning victory at the Battle of Chancellorsville, Confederate Gen. Robert E. Lee formulated a plan to invade the North. In preparation for his army's secret withdrawal from Fredericksburg, Lee ordered his cavalry into Culpeper County to screen and protect the impending shift of his infantry and artillery toward the Shenandoah Valley. Federal cavalry, just across the Rappahannock River to the north, discovered the presence of Southern horsemen here.
Union Gen. Joseph Hooker, commander of the Army of the Potomac, promptly ordered his Cavalry Corps under Gen. Alfred Pleasonton to "disperse and destroy" the enemy cavalry. At dawn June 9, 1863, Federal cavalry boldly attacked Gen. J.E.B. Stuart's cavalry division around Fleetwood Hill and came within a whisker of defeating the Confederate mounted forces. At the end of the day, Union cavalry withdrew across the Rappahannock River. With more than 20,000 soldiers fighting it was the largest cavalry action of the war - and one that also began the fateful Gettysburg Campaign. Roughly 1,500 men were killed, wounded, or captured in this momentous clash.
"On June 9, 1863, there was fought a cavalry battle the influence of which was so great and far reaching that it must always hold a place in the annals of American cavalry."
- Gen. David M. Gregg, Cavalry Corps, USA
"A great drama was about to begin, to end the conclusive struggle of the war, but at this moment came the sudden clash in Culpeper, precluding the thunder at Cemetery Hill."
- Capt. John Esten Cooke, Cavalry Division, CSA
Erected 2015 by Virginia Civil War Trails.


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| https://www.hmdb.org/m.asp?m=97488 |
Battle of Brandy Station
Headquarters Hill
John Strode, a prominent Revolutionary War gun manufacturer, built his manor house, Fleetwood, in the late 1700s. Strode was a friend of President Thomas Jefferson, who often stayed here when traveling between Monticello and Washington, D.C. The mansion that gave the hill its name was greatly damaged by the war, finally collapsing in the late 1800s.
Fleetwood Hill, this "Famous Plateau," was used as a headquarters platform several times. Confederate Gen. Joseph E. Johnston first exploited Fleetwood's position overlooking the the Rappahannock River in March 1862. Confederate Gen. J.E.B. Stuart established his headquarters here in May 1863, before the Battle of Brandy Station began on June 9. The following month, Gen. Robert E. Lee traversed the storied hill, leaving his cavalry as rear guard atop Fleetwood. That fall, Union Gen. George E. Meade's headquarters occupied Fleetwood briefly before Lee returned and camped here. During the Union winter camp of 1863-1864, the headquarters of the Army of the Potomac and the Third Corps were located on Fleetwood Hill.
"The country around Brandy Station is open, particularly suitable for a cavalry engagement. Fleetwood, the coveted hill, was the key to the entire situation, and here the fight was everywhere most fierce."
—Gen. David M. Gregg, USA
"The high hill upon which I slept the night before the battle is called Fleetwood and it is a fine military position. About noon on June 9, we had a fight for it."
—Gen. J.E.B. Stuart, CSA
Erected by Virginia Civil War Trails, Civil War Trust.
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| https://www.hmdb.org/m.asp?m=97493 |
Battle of Brandy Station
The Winter Camp of 1863-1864
The 1863 campaigns for Chancellorsville, Gettysburg, Bristoe Station, and Mine Run exacted an immense toll upon the Army of the Potomac. Union Gen. George G. Meade deemed it vital to rest his command. War Department officials also used this opportunity to replenish ranks and bolster the arm's hemorrhaged logistical infrastructure. During the second week of December 1863, Federal troops began building a vast winter camp in Culpeper County, with headquarters operations centered on Fleetwood Hill.
Meade's headquarters tents sprawled over the hill's northern spur, a half-mile distant. The Third Corps headquarters sprang up here, on southern Fleetwood. The Third Corps tents spread out around Stevensburg, the Fifth Corps at Rappahannock Station, the Sixth Corps over northern Fleetwood, and the First Corps in and around Culpeper Court House. Three cavalry divisions established a mounted picket line that surrounded the army and extended as far north as Warrenton. Gen. Ulysses S. Grant assumed command of all United States armies and arrived here in April 1864 to accompany the Army of the Potomac on its spring 1864 campaign. On May 4, the rejuvenated and well-trained Army of the Potomac departed Fleetwood Hill forever to begin the Overland Campaign. The Wilderness waited.
"There was something fascinating about our winter city of 100,000 men. History should know that our military service did not consist entirely of being shot at, or trying to shoot the other man."
—Maj. Thomas W. Hyde, staff officer, Sixth Corps, USA
"The one thing that we suffered the most from, the hardship hardest to bear, was hunger. The scantiness of the rations was something fierce. We never got a square meal that winter. We were always hungry."
—Pvt. William M. Dame, Richmond Howitzers, From the Rapidan to Richmond (1920)

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| https://www.hmdb.org/m.asp?m=97494 |
Battle of Brandy Station
Battle's Wake
Driven from Fleetwood Hill, the Union cavalry pulled back toward the Rappahannock River and halted just beyond cannon range. Observing that the sullen Federals refused to depart, Confederate Gen. J.E.B. Stuart consolidated his defensive line around Fleetwood Hill. Late in the afternoon, Stuart ordered Gen. William H.F. "Rooney" Lee to counterattack the Federal right flank, which prompted Gen. Alfred Pleasonton's Cavalry Corps to withdraw across the river fifteen hours after the battle started. Confederate burial details labored "to bury friend and foe alike, precisely where they fell."
Both sides claimed victory, and both sides were correct. The Confederates controlled the battlefield after it was all over, a clear indication of short-term triumph. Both sides were also unanimous in the conclusion that the Federal cavalry finally proved its tactical efficiency and offensive elan. Perhaps most importantly, Southern cavalry could not replace the valuable officers, men, and horses lost here, and these non-recoverable losses marked the inexorable, relentless decline of Gen. Robert E. Lee's cavalry for the remaining two years of the war.
"The Rebel cavalry was in the ascendancy before June 9, but was never able to cope with our cavalry thereafter. The Battle of Brandy Station was in fact the beginning of the end of the war."
—Gen. Charles H. Smith, 1st Maine Cavalry, USA
"Fleetwood Hill was covered so thickly after the battle with dead horses and men that there was not room to pitch the tents among them."
—Capt. William W. Blackford, aide to Stuart, CSA
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| The signage about preservation has not been preserved yet in the database. Not a historical marker? |
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| https://www.hmdb.org/m.asp?m=97495 |
Battle of Brandy Station
Confederate Counterattack
Confederate Gen. J.E.B. Stuart realized that his headquarters here was overrun and that Gen. William E. Jones's Brigade was fighting to survive. Stuart ordered Gen. Wade Hampton's Brigade to fall back from the St. James Church line and recapture Fleetwood Hill. Cobb's (Georgia) Legion took the lead, followed by the 1st South Carolina Cavalry and then the 1st North Carolina Cavalry and the Jeff Davis Legion. After a mile-long gallop, Cobb's Legion arrayed its ranks in close order and with sabers flashing, pounded up to this exact spot. The Georgians savagely struck the Marylanders and Pennsylvanians and, aided by the 1st South Carolina, forced the Federals to fall back and to the south and east.
Swooping up right behind, the 1st North Carolina and Jeff Davis Legion swung to the east as they approached Fleetwood. Utilizing the northern slope as forward momentum, they charged down toward the railroad tracks where they smashed headlong into the New Jersey and New York troopers. Valiantly fighting back, the Federals were nevertheless driven beyond the railroad tracks. With Fleetwood Hill now cleared of Union troops, Stuart's Horse Artillery soon crowned the summit and poured a hail of iron into the slowly withdrawing Federals. The Battle for Fleetwood Hill was over.
"I began to ascend the hill upon which were General Stuart's headquarters. I swept the hill clear of the enemy, he being scattered and entirely routed."
—Col. Pierce M.B. Young, Cobb's (Georgia) Legion, CSA
"The real picnic was on. The cutting, and slashing, the firing pistol, carbine and cannon, the falling of dead men and horses made a scene that beggars description."
—Pvt. Aaron Bachman, 1st Pennsylvania Cavalry, USA
Erected by Virginia Civil War Trails, Civil War Trust.

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| https://www.hmdb.org/m.asp?m=97499 |
Battle of Brandy Station
Kilpatrick's Attack
Col. H. Judson Kilpatrick formed his brigade on an open plateau to the southeast of Fleetwood Hill, 900 yards from here. He soon received orders to support Lt. Col. Percy Wyndham's Brigade, now fiercely engaged with Gen. William E. Jones's Brigade on the crest. The Orange & Alexandria Railroad tracks (built on a high bed in 1854) lay between Wyndham and the hill, presenting a steep hurdle. Kilpatrick instructed the 10th New York Cavalry to move forward diagonally toward Fleetwood Hill with the 2nd New York galloping close behind and to its right. As the two regiments traversed the tracks, leading elements of Confederate Gen. Wade Hampton's Brigade counterattacked.
When the New Yorkers fell back in confusion, Kilpatrick urgently summoned his remaining regiment, the 1st Maine Cavalry. Swinging his saber wildly over his head, Kilpatrick ordered the men of Maine to sweep around the right of the New York regiments and "save the day." With the brigade band striking up a jaunty air, the 1st Maine ascended directly toward this point, and their bold charge cleared Fleetwood of Confederate troopers. As they set off in pursuit from the summit, however, the Maine regiment left Fleetwood Hill behind, open and exposed, and others soon staked a claim to this "famous plateau."
"Men of Maine, you must save the day! Your regiment can do it!"
—Col. H. Judson Kilpatrick, quoted by Capt. Charles W. Ford, 1st Maine Cavalry, USA
"The enemy's charge broke us all to pieces and we lost all organization and sought safety in flight."
—Pvt. John Opie, 6th Virginia Cavalry, CSA
Erected by Virginia Civil War Trails, Civil War Trust.



https://www.hmdb.org/m.asp?m=97501
Battle of Brandy Station
Wyndham's Attack
Union Lt. Col. Percy Wyndham advanced his command from Brandy Station and centered his attack on this spot. To your right, the 1st New Jersey Cavalry ascended the slope. The 1st Maryland Cavalry occupied the center, and to your left, circling around the southern base of Fleetwood Hill, the 1st Pennsylvania Cavalry galloped toward the eastern crest. Just before Federal troopers reached the summit, the 12th Virginia Cavalry charged up from the other side, rode over this plateau, and smashed into the 1st New Jersey. The determined New Jerseyans were not to be denied, however, and they slashed aside the 12th Virginia, triumphantly gaining the summit. The 12th Virginia lost its battle flag in the savage fighting, the only regimental standard to be captured that day.
The 35th Battalion Virginia Cavalry and the 6th Virginia, both of Gen. William E. Jones's Brigade, galloped up the northern slopes and joined the fight. The struggle swung wildly back and forth between Jones's Brigade and Wyndham's Brigade. Tactical cohesion fell apart as officers were killed. Choking, swirling dust filled the hot morning air, making it difficult to discern friend from foe.
"As we dashed fiercely into them, saber in hand, they broke like a wave on the bow of a ship, and over and through them we rode, sabering as we went. By Jove, sir, that was a charge!"
—Adj. Marcus Kitchen, 1st New Jersey Cavalry, USA
"A hard gallop had enabled only the leading files of the 12th Virginia to reach the top of the hill, but with the true spirit of a forlorn hope, Colonel Harmon and the few men around him dashed at the advancing Federals."
—Maj. Henry B. McClellan, Stuart's adjutant, CSA
Erected by Virginia Civil War Trails, Civil War Trust.
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| https://www.hmdb.org/m.asp?m=154527 |
Battle of Brandy Station
Heights & Sights to the South & West
The commanding view from Fleetwood Hill rendered this “Famous Plateau” an ideal observation post during the war. Today the view looks much as it did in the 1860s.
1. COLE’S HILL
During the winter of 1864, Federal Second Corps troops camped on and around this hill, which was also a prominent signal station.
2. HANSBOROUGH’S RIDGE
Gen. Alexander Hays’s division, Union Second Corps, made its winter camp on the ridge. The Civil War Trust helped to preserve the site.
3. ORANGE & ALEXANDRIA RAILROAD
Built in the mid 1850s, it was a vital supply line for both Federal and Confederate forces throughout the war.
4. CLARK MOUNTAIN
Higher than 1,000 feet, this is the tallest mountain in Virginia east of the Blue Ridge. This bold summit repeatedly served as a Confederate signal station and observation post.
5. PONY MOUNTAIN
An important signal station for both sides, particularly for the Union during the winter of 1863-1864.
6. CEDAR MOUNTAIN
The site of an important Confederate victory, August 9, 1862.
7. WYNDHAM’S APPROACH
Union Lt. Col. Sir Percy Wyndham’s brigade crossed these fields to attack Fleetwood Hill during the Battle of Brandy Station, June 9, 1863.
8. BRANDY STATION
First called crossroads, this hamlet later was named Brandy after a local tavern, and then Brandy Station, June 9, 1863.
9. OLD CAROLINA ROAD
A former Iroquois hunting path, this improved colonial road connected Pennsylvania with North Carolina.
10. THOROUGHFARE MOUNTAIN
Confederates moved around it during the Second Manassas (1862) and Bristoe (1863) Campaigns.
11. CULPEPER COURTHOUSE
The Culpeper County seat of government.
12. FLAT RUN
Wyndham’s cavalry charged up Fleetwood Hill from this creek.
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| https://www.hmdb.org/m.asp?m=131546 |
Battle of Brandy Station
Heights & Sights to the North & East
The commanding view from Fleetwood Hill rendered this “Famous Plateau” an ideal observation post during the war. Today the view looks much as it did in the 1860s.
1. STONY MOUNTAIN
The headwaters of the Rapidan River flow from the base of the Blue Ridge mountain.
2. OLD RAG
A prominent summit in the Blue Ridge.
3. HAZEL MOUNTAIN
The Hazel River flows from this Blue Ridge Mountain and enters the Rappahannock River just above Beverly Ford.
4. BEAUREGARD (Barbour House)
Gen. Robert E. Lee watched the closing phases of the Battle of Brandy Station from the cupola atop the house, which was named in honor of Confederate Gen. P.G.T. Beauregard.
5. NORTH FLEETWOOD HILL
Union Gen. John Buford’s final attacks at Brandy Station gained the northern crest of the hill.
6. MEADE’S HEADQUARTERS
Union Gen. George G. Meade, commander of the Army of the Potomac, made his winter headquarters here in 1863-1864.
7. ST. JAMES CHURCH
The church sat on the plateau where the Confederates anchored their defense against Union Gen. John Buford’s first attack toward Brandy Station. The Federals demolished it for hut-building materials in December 1863.
8. BEVERLY FORD
In the opening phase of the Battle of Brandy Station, Union Gen. John Buford’s “right wing” crossed the Rappahannock River here early in the morning of June 9, 1863.
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| https://www.hmdb.org/m.asp?m=97490 |
Battle of Brandy Station
Battle for Fleetwood Hill
On the evening of June 8, 1863, Confederate Gen. J.E.B. Stuart and his headquarters staff camped on the northern edge of Fleetwood Hill. Early the next morning, heavy gunfire from the direction of Beverly's Ford (three miles to your left rear), alerted Stuart that his command was under heavy attack. This assaulting element of 5,800 troopers comprised the right wing of Union Gen. Alfred Pleasanton's Cavalry Corps. The left wing of 6,000 men crossed at Kelly's Ford, six miles to your left front. Part of that wing was stalled there. The remainder rode west, planning to swing north at Stevensburg and attack the Confederate rear, but was blocked at the village.
Mistakenly assuming that the attackers were only crossing Beverly's Ford, Stuart departed Fleetwood at about 8:00 A.M. to oversee the Confederate defense centered at St. James Church (one mile to your left rear), leaving behind his adjutant, Maj. Henry B. McClellan, to sustain the headquarters on Fleetwood Hill. At about 10:30, Union Gen. David M. Gregg's cavalry division arrived near the village of Brandy Station (1/2 mile to your left front) and prepared to seize Fleetwood Hill. McClellan urgently summoned Stuart back from St. James Church, and soon the momentous fight for mastery of Fleetwood Hill began in deadly earnest.
"General Gregg showed an enthusiasm I had never noticed. He started his horse on a gallop toward the hill, swing his gauntlets over his head and hurrahing, at the same time."
—Capt. Henry C. Meyer, 2nd New York Cavalry, USA
"General Stuart ordered every regiment to move on Fleetwood. It was a thrilling sight to see these dashing horsemen draw their sabers and start for the hill at a gallop."
—Capt. William W. Blackford, adie to Stuart, CSA
Then, on the way away from battlefield, there are two lonely old markers virtually hidden, but never forgotten.
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| https://www.hmdb.org/m.asp?m=238937 |
Battle of Brandy Station
Surprise — First at Beverly Ford and Again in Brandy Station
The ridge ahead of Fleetwood Hill; headquarters of Confederate cavalry commander Maj. Gen. J.E.B. Stuart on the eve of the June 9, 1863 battle of Brandy Station. Confederate horsemen did not expect to fight that day, but instead begin a movement north that would lead both armies to their epic encounter at Gettysburg, Pennsylvania. Stuart had just consolidated 9,500 troopers for the assignment, and had drawn in his most far-flung cavalry outposts, no longer able to warn of the Union approach.
Some 11,000 Union forces under Brig. Gen. Alfred Pleasanton advanced and were poised to cross the Rappahannock River at two locations — Beverly Ford, four miles to your left front and Kelly's Ford, seven miles to your right front. At 4:30 a.m., Union horsemen splashed across Beverly Ford scattering Confederate pickets posted only two miles in advance of nearby sleeping comrades. As word of the surprise attack reached Stuart, he dispatched 1,500 men to cover roads he knew to be vulnerable; and rode to the front, leaving his adjutant, Maj. Henry B. McClellan at his headquarters.
About two hours later a scout reported to McClellan that a Union force was about to arrive at the village of Brandy Station — 1/2 mile behind you and in the rear of the Confederate battle line.
Erected by Brandy Station Foundation.

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Battle of Brandy Station
A Show of Force on Fleetwood Hill
The wing under Union Brig. David Gregg crossed Kelly's Ford at 6:00 A.M., discovering the direct route to link up with the wing that crossed at Beverly Ford blocked. But scouts discovered the Confederates had neglected to guard the road leading to Brandy Station where Gregg arrived about 10:30 A.M.
Maj. Henry B. McClellan remained at headquarters on Fleetwood Hill, sending couriers to warn Confederate cavalry commander Maj. Gen. J.E.B. Stuart of the new threat to his rear. McClellan's only fighting force was an artillery crew of Lt. John Carter with their howitzer and an ammunition chest that was nearly empty. As a bluff, McClellan ordered the lone cannon to take a position on Fleetwood Hill and open a deliberate fire on Gregg.
Stuart, two miles away, directing fighting at St. James Church, was incredulous of the claims of Union troops in Brandy Station until sounds of cannonading coming from the direction of the village convinced the general of the veracity of the reports. He began dispatching troops to Fleetwood Hill, starting with the 12th Virginia Cavalry.
McClellan's ruse caused Gregg's men to hesitate, unlimber two guns, and return fire before sending the 1st New Jersey Cavalry forward.
[Both] Erected by Brandy Station Foundation.
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| What color is Hampton? |
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https://www.hmdb.org/m.asp?m=2574
Here on 9 June 1863, the largest cavalry battle in North America occurred when 9,500 troopers fought 8,000 cavalrymen under Union Brig. Gen. Alfred Pleasonton. This daylong battle, the opening engagement of the Gettysburg campaign, erupted when the Federal attack surprised Stuart and his men. The Confederates prevented the Union cavalry from learning the intentions of Gen. Robert E. Lee, who had begun marching his infantry to the Shenandoah Valley to invade the North. For the first time in the Civil War, however, the Federal cavalry proved itself a match for its opponents.
Erected 1995 by Department of Historic Resources. (Marker Number F-11.)
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After the Battle, in the same location....
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| The house was closed and I missed seeing the actual graffiti, but I'll live. |
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| I'll be back for Buford's Knoll! |
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The 1863-64 Winter Encampment
The Army of the Potomac at Brandy Station
War has many faces and the residents of Culpeper County saw them all. Brandy Station played an important role in the Battle of Brandy Station on June 9, 1863, though the Union and Confederate armies never clashed in the streets of the little town. A few months later, however, as winter descended, roads turned to muddy soup, and the frantic place of conflict slowed, the Union army established winter camps throughout the area.
Located on the Orange and Alexandria Railroad, Brandy Station served as the Union Army of the Potomac's key supply and passenger depot during their 1863-1864 winter encampment in this area. Ingalls' Station, named for the army's Quartermaster General Rufus Ingalls, was 1.2 miles to the north. About 1 mile east-northeast, along the southern slopes of Fleetwood Hill, Maj. Gen. George G. Meade, commander of the Union army, set up his headquarters.
Here in Brandy Station, amid the hubbub of loading and unloading supplies and personnel, soldiers could have their pictures taken for $1.50 or spend their money on any number of other items. As one soldier remembered, "persons of almost any trade are...making money from the soldiers. There [in Brandy Station] you will see...Oysters, Fresh Fish, Condensed Milk, and numberless other signs which tempt the pocket book of the soldier...."
"It was a very busy place," another soldier wrote, "...from morning till night trains of army wagons were coming and going...waiting for their time to load."
With spring, roads dry out and temperatures rise, heralding a new season of battle. In early May 1864, the Army of the Potomac left its comfortable winter quarters and headed off to begin the bloody Overland Campaign.
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The Hallowell Foundation generously contributed toward the interpretation of this site in memory of Carrington Williams.
This material is based upon work assisted by a grant from the Department of the Interior, National Park Service. Any opinion, findings and conclusions or recommendations expressed in this material are those of the author(s) and do not necessarily reflect the views of the Department of the Interior.
Erected by Civil War Preservation Trust.
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Walls That Talk
Brandy Station's Graffiti House
Scores of soldiers passed through Brandy Station during the Civil War, and the "Graffiti House" in front of you literally tells the story of wartime events. Soldiers from both sides scrawled signatures, sketches, and messages upon the walls.
Confederate cavalry patrolled this region during the first six months of 1863, and that's when most of the Southern signatures were likely done. One inscription roads: "Battle of Beverlys Ford, April 16th, 1863, Yanks caught hell."
Three cousins served in Company E, 12th Virginia Cavalry, each named for their prominent grandfather James Markham Marshall. One wrote "Capt. J. Marshall" on an upstairs wall of the house.
Members of the Army of the Potomac's Third Corps wrote much of the Union graffiti in the house. Maps seem to indicate that Third Corps division commander Gen. Henry Prince used the house as his headquarters. One of his regimental commanders, Col. J. Egbert Farnum, and his ordnance officer, Capt. B. Weller Hoxie, both signed the walls.
J. Egbert Farnum, 70th New York, was arrested in 1860 for bringing an illegal cargo of 400 enslaved people from Africa to the United States on board the ship Wanderer. A mistrial was declared because of a hung jury and charges were eventually dropped.
Next to this detailed drawing is the message "I am turned over to Lieut. Gale." What was her relationship to Lt. Lyman Gale, of the 10th Vermont of the Third Corps, who camped nearby?
Captain James Marshall, Company E, 12th Virginia Cavalry, was one of 16 cadets from the Virginia Military Institute's first graduating class of 1842.
Sources:
Wittenberg, Eric J., and J. David Petruzzi. Plenty of Blame to Go Around: Jeb Stuart's Controversial Ride to Gettysburg. New York: Savas Beatie, 2006. ISBN 1-932714-20-0.
http://www.gdg.org/Research/People/Buford/brandsem.html
https://www.battlefields.org/learn/articles/brandy-station
https://www.brandystationfoundation.com/
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